Kimchi Sundubu Jjigae

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This Korean tofu and kimchi stew is the ultimate cold weather comfort food. Of all the jjigaes (Korean stews), this one is my favorite. Briny, spicy, and deeply savory, there’s a reason why it’s one of the most popular dishes at Korean restaurants. This was my go-to order at Pyeong Chang Tofu House in Oakland for ages. These days, I’ve learned to make it at home.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup sour, aged kimchi with juice
  • 1 tablespoon avocado oil
  • 6 green onions, cut into 1-inch segments, green and white sections separated
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 2 teaspoons gochujang
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 3 teaspoons gochugaru
  • 1 quart dashi
  • 1 1/2 pounds soft tofu
  • 1 egg per serving (4, depending on serving size)
  • Cooked rice, for serving
  1. Drain the kimchi in a strainer set over a small bowl, squeezing to remove liquid. Roughly chop the kimchi and reserve the kimchi and juice seperately.
  2. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan (or similar) over medium-high heat. Add the whites of the green onions, garlic, and chopped kimchi. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
  3. Add the kimchi juice, gochujang, and soy sauce. Cook until the vegetables are coated in an even layer of sauce. Add the gochugaru and dashi, bring to a simmer and cook about 10 to 15 minutes. (Optional step: add a handful of cubed daikon radish, enoki mushrooms, or beech mushrooms before simmering at this stage. You could also add a handful of shellfish in the last few minutes of cooking.)
  4. Add the tofu and green tops of the green onions, stir gently, and heat until boiling. Break the eggs directly into the simmering broth. Stir the egg in to make a richer soup, or let them loosely poach int the broth. Serve with rice.

Ma Po Tofu, Version Two

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I’m a fiend for ma po tofu. It’s easily one of my favorite Chinese dishes of all time. Actually, it’s one of my favorite dishes, period. My original version isn’t particularly authentic but is loosely adapted from one of the OGs of Chinese-American cooking, Bay Area legend Martin Yan himself.

This version, however, tastes closer to something you might find in a Sichuanese restaurant. Both are spicy, comforting, and perfect over a bowl of rice.

Ingredients:

  • 2 tablespoons avocado oil
  • 1/2 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns
  • 4 ounces ground beef
  • 1 tablespoon minced ginger
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 3 tablespoons zha cai (preserved radish), minced
  • 2 tablespoons doubanjiang (spicy chili bean paste)
  • 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
  • 1/4 cup chicken stock
  • 1 16-ounce package silken tofu, diced into large bite-size pieces
  • 2 tablespoons chopped green onions
  • Steamed rice, for serving
  1. Heat the avocado oil in a wok over high heat. When the oil is smoking hot, add the Sichuan peppercorns. Stir-fry for 5 seconds, until fragrant, then add the ground beef. Stir-fry and brown the beef, about 3 minutes, then add the ginger, garlic, and preserved radish to the wok.
  2. After about 1 minute, add the doubanjiang and Shaoxing wine and stir, then add the chicken stock; mixture should be saucy, like a ragu. Lower the heat and let the mixture simmer for 3 minutes. Add the tofu to the wok and gently stir to not break up the tofu pieces. After 4 minutes, add the green onions to the wok, gently mix, and serve warm with rice.

Korean-Style Seafood and Green Onion Pancakes

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These are not the most beautiful seafood and green onion pancakes, but they are the most versatile. Adapted from a J. Kenji Lopez-Alt recipe, these savory pancakes can be made with nearly any combination of seafood, including canned tuna or salmon, making it easy for a quick weeknight dinner. Serve them warm or serve them room temperature, but be sure to serve them with the tasty dipping sauce.

Ingredients:

For the dipping sauce:

  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons rice or black vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 green onion, sliced
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

For the pancakes:

  • 8 ounces mixed seafood (I recommend canned tuna, oysters, mussels, or surimi)
  • 6 green onions, split lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 4 ounces (about 3/4 cup) flour
  • 1 ounce cornstarch or potato starch
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 6 ounces (about 3/4 cup) cold water
  • 1 egg
  • Avocado oil, for pan-frying
  1. Make the dipping sauce: combine all the ingredients and stir until the sugar dissolves. Set aside.
  2. Make the pancakes: combine the seafood, green onions, flour, cornstarch, sugar, water and egg in a large mixing bowl. Stir rapidly with a spoon just until no dry flour remains (do not over mix). The batter should be thin enough to flow when you tilt the bowl.
  3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in the bottom of a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add just enough batter that you can spread it into a thin pancake with the back of a spoon (you should be able to make 2 10-inch pancakes or several smaller pancakes). Let the pancake cook without moving until the bottom of the pancake is set, about 2 minutes.
  4. Continue to cook, swirling the pancake around to encourage even browning until the first side is browned, about 5 minutes. Use a spatula to carefully flip the pancake. Continue cooking until the second side is also browned, about 4 minutes longer.
  5. Slide the pancake out onto a cutting board. Repeat steps 3 through 5 for remaining batter. Cut into wedges with a knife or pizza slicer and serve with the dipping sauce.

Smashed Cucumbers with Tahini-Soy Dressing

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Cucumber season is upon us! And since I’m Iranian, cucumber snacking is baked into my DNA. This spicy and creamy cucumber salad is perfect with any kind of crisp cucumber, particularly Persian, Armenian, or Japanese. Eat it as a side dish or on its own (it’s that good).

Ingredients:
  • 6 Persian cucumbers
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 garlic clove, grated
  • 1/4 cup tahini
  • 3 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon white miso
  • 1 teaspoon grated ginger
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • Chili crisp or chili oil, for serving
  • 2 green onions, thinly sliced on a diagonal
  • 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
  1. Cut cucumbers in half lengthwise, then slice 1/4-inch thick on a diagonal into 2 1/2-inch-long pieces. Place cucumbers in a large bowl, add salt, and toss to combine. Cover and chill at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours. Drain cucumbers.
  2. Whisk garlic, tahini, lime juice, soy sauce, vinegar, miso, ginger, sugar, and sesame oil in a small bowl to combine. Pour dressing over cucumbers and toss to coat.
  3. Transfer cucumber salad to a platter. Drizzle with chili oil and top with green onions and sesame seeds.

Silken Tofu with Avocado and Furikake

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I stan soft tofu. Soft tofu with mushrooms, chilled soft tofu with a spicy soy sauce, soft tofu in dessert, it doesn’t matter. My current favorite is this: a super-simple block of soft tofu with creamy avocado and crunchy bits of furikake. I’m not sure what’s faster : the amount of time to make this dish or the amount of time it takes for me to devour it.

Ingredients:

  • 1 14-ounce block silken tofu
  • 1 avocado, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 teaspoons lime juice
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons furikake
  1. Cut the tofu into 1/2-inch-thick slices and arrange them on a plate. Shingle the avocado slices across the top of the tofu. Drizzle with the soy sauce, lime juice, and oil, then sprinkle with furikake. Serve immediately.