Fish-Fragrant Eggplant

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Despite the name, fish-fragrant eggplant contains no fish at all. What it does have is everything else worth loving: silky eggplant, garlic, ginger, chilies, and that perfect balance of sweet, sour, savory, and spicy that makes Sichuan cooking so addictive. It’s the kind of dish that can turn even a casual eggplant eater into a devoted fan.

Ingredients:

For the eggplant:

  • Salt
  • 1 pound Chinese eggplant, trimmed, quartered lengthwise, and cut crosswise into 3-inch batons
  • 2 teaspoons cornstarch

For the sauce:

  • 2 teaspoons Chinkiang or balsamic vinegar
  • 3 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 tablespoons chicken stock
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 teaspoon cornstarch

For the stir-fry:

  • 6 tablespoons avocado oil
  • 2 to 4 ounces ground chicken (optional)
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 2 teaspoons minced ginger
  • 1 tablespoon doubanjiang chile paste
  • 1 teaspoon minced Thai chile (optional)
  • 2 green onions, whites and pale green parts cut into 1-inch segments, dark green parts thinly sliced, for garnish
  • Small handful chopped cilantro, for garnish
  1. Prepare the eggplant: combine 1/2 cup salt with 2 quarts of water in a medium bowl. Add the eggplant pieces, cover with a clean paper towel, press down to soak the paper towel in brine, and aside to soak for at least 10 and up to 20 minutes. Drain the eggplant and spin in a salad spinner or blot dry with paper towels. Transfer to a bowl, sprinkle with cornstarch, and toss with your fingertips until lightly coated. Set aside.
  2. Make the sauce: combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and mix until no cornstarch lumps remain. Set aside.
  3. Make the stir-fry: heat 1/4 cup oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the eggplant and spread into a single layer. Cook, turning the eggplant occasionally, until softened and browned on all sides, about four minutes. Transfer the eggplant to a paper towel lined bowl and set aside.
  4. Heat a wok over high heat and add 2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat. Add the garlic, ginger, doubanjiang, green onion whites and pale green parts, and Thai chili and stir-fry until fragrant and the oil has become dark red from the bean paste, about 30 seconds. Stir the sauce and add it to the wok by swirling it around the sides. Stir-fry until the sauce is thick, about 15 seconds.
  5. Add the eggplant to the wok and toss a coat in the sauce. If the sauce overthickens, thin it out with a splash of water. Transfer to a serving bowl, garnish with the green onion greens and chopped cilantro leaves, and serve.

Yakisoba

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Yakisoba is not health food, and it’s not pretending to be. It’s noodles, sauce, a little cabbage to make everyone feel better about their choices, a deeply satisfying flavor. This version isn’t particularly authentic, but it’ll still make you go for seconds.

Ingredients:

For the sauce:

  • 2 tablespoons okonomi sauce
  • 2 teaspoons ketchup
  • 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sugar

For the stir-fry

  • 1 tablespoon avocado oil
  • 4 ounces turkey bacon, cut into 1/2-inch slices
  • 1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced
  • 1 small carrot, cut into 2-inch matchsticks
  • 1/2 head green cabbage, thinly shredded
  • 3 green onions, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
  • 1 pound yakisoba noodles, rinsed under hot water to loosen them
  • Pepper
  • Ao-nori, for garnish
  • Beni-shoga ginger, for garnish
  • Kewpie mayonnaise, for garnish
  1. Make the sauce: combine the okonomi sauce, ketchup, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and sugar in a small bowl and stir together until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.
  2. Make the stir-fry: heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the turkey bacon and cook, stirring occasionally until it is starting to turn brown, about five minutes.
  3. Increase the heat to high, then add the onion, carrot, and cabbage and stir-fry until the vegetables are tender and starting to brown slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the green onions, stir to combine, then transfer everything to a bowl and set aside, leaving some of the oil in the skillet.
  4. Reheat the skillet over high heat and add the noodles and cook, tossing, until hot, about 1 minute. Return the vegetables and turkey bacon to the skillet and toss everything to combine. Stir the sauce and add to the skillet. Cook, stirring until the sauce cooks everything. Season to taste with pepper. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with ao-nori and beni-shoga, drizzle with Kewpie mayo, and serve.

Sri Lankan Eggplant Moju

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When eggplants start showing up everywhere this time of year, I know exactly what I’m making. Sri Lankan eggplant moju takes a humble vegetable and turns it into something unforgettable: sweet, sour, deeply savory, and impossible to stop picking at straight from the bowl. Eat this with rice and you’ve got a perfect summer meal.

Ingredients:

  • 2 medium eggplant, sliced into 1 inch-thick slices
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 3 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 cup avocado oil, for deep-frying
  • 4 yellow banana peppers, sliced into 1/2 inch-thick strips
  • 3 teaspoons sugar

For the spice paste:

  • 1 inch ginger, peeled and chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Sri Lankan curry powder
  • 5 cloves
  • 5 cardamom pods, lightly bruised in a mortar and pestle
  • 1 1/2-inch piece cinnamon stick
  • 2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
  • Bottom 4 inches of a lemongrass stalk, rough outer layers removed and insides finely chopped
  • 12 curry leaves
  • 4 inch piece pandan leaf, roughly chopped (optional)
  1. In a colander, mix the eggplant slices with 1 teaspoon of salt. Set them aside while you make the spice paste.
  2. Make the spice paste: grind everything together in a spice grinder to form a paste. Place in a small bowl and set aside while you cook the eggplant.
  3. Put one of the thinly sliced red onions in a bowl with 1/4 cup vinegar and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Let it pickle while you make the eggplant.
  4. Pour the oil into a large frying pan and set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, gently add the slices of eggplant into the oil in one layer (you may need to do this in batches) and fry for about 4 minutes for each side, until golden on both sides. Gently transfer eggplant to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with the rest of the eggplant.
  5. Once you’ve fried all the eggplant, fry the remaining 2 onions in the hot oil for about five minutes, until golden brown, then add the fried onions alongside the eggplant to drain.
  6. Fry the banana peppers in the same way for three or four minutes, and add to the plate of eggplant and onion.
  7. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of oil from the pan into a bowl to discard once cool. Place the pan over medium-high heat and cook the spice paste for 2-3 minutes, until it begins to brown. Add all of the vegetables, along with the rest of the vinegar, a splash of water, and the sugar. Stir gently to coat in the mixture and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes, until most of the liquid has bubbled away and the eggplant is shiny. Top with the pickled onions and serve warm or at room temperature.

Hot and Sour Wontons

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Hot and sour wontons are one of those dishes that make it almost impossible to settle for a bland meal. Tender dumplings swimming in chili oil, black vinegar, garlic, and spice: sharp, rich, and unapologetically bold. Learning to make them at home felt less like a project and more like a necessity.

Ingredients:

For the wontons:

  • 1 pound ground chicken
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 3/4 teaspoon white pepper
  • 2 green onions (or Chinese chives), minced
  • 2 teaspoons garlic, minced
  • 2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine
  • 40-50 square wonton wrappers

For the sauce:

  • 1/4 cup chile oil
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • 3 tablespoons Chinkiang vinegar or a mixture of 1 tablespoon rice vinegar and 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds

To serve:

  • 2 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts
  • Small handful cilantro leaves, chopped
  1. Make the sauce: Combine sauce ingredients in a small bowl and stir until sugar is dissolved. Set aside until ready to use.
  2. Make the wontons: Combine the chicken, salt, sugar, pepper, green ionions, garlic, and wine in a medium bowl and knead and turn with clean hands until the mixture is homogenous and starting to feel tacky, about 1 minute.
  3. Fill the wontons, using a tablespoon of filling per skin. Use your fingertip to add a thin layer of water around all the edges of the wrapper. Pull two corners together and pinch them shut to form a triangle, then seal up the edges of the triangle, making sure to push out as much air as possible. Moisten the folded corners, then pull them toward each other, making them meet and cross in the center. Repeat until you’ve made all your wontons.
  4. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Cook about 20 wontons at a time until they are completely cooked through, about four minutes. Drain the wontons and transfer to a warm serving platter. Repeat with the remaining wontons and spoon the sauce on top of the cooked wontons. Sprinkle with peanuts and minced cilantro and serve.

Okra and Turkey Bacon Pilaf

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Okra has been my favorite vegetable for as long as I can remember, so I’m always looking for new excuses to cook it. This deeply savory okra and turkey bacon rice pilaf is one of those simple, comforting dishes that feels bigger than the ingredient list. It’s made for going back for seconds.

Ingredients:
  • 5 slices turkey bacon, chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped white onion
  • 2 cups fresh or frozen sliced okra 
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 4 cloves) 
  • 1 quart chicken stock
  • 2 cups basmati rice
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon pepper
  1. Heat turkey bacon in a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender, about 5 minutes.
  2. Add okra, and cook, stirring often until dry and tender, 8 to 10 minutes for fresh okra or 3 to 5 minutes for frozen. Stir in garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Transfer okra mixture to a bowl and set aside.
  3. Add stock to pot, and bring to a boil over high, scraping bottom of pot to release any browned bits. Stir in rice, salt, and pepper, and bring to a simmer. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until rice is tender and stock is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes. Uncover; fold in reserved okra mixture, and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; fluff with a fork, and serve.