Toronto, Days One and Two

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Toronto is hailed as one of the greatest food cities in North America, though you might not know it because Canadians can be so modest. But when I visited last fall, I was excited to eat, explore, spend time with Nishan’s family and enjoy some home-cooked Sri Lankan cuisine.

String hoppers

After a delicious new Canadian dinner at Marben in downtown Toronto, Nishan and I spent a couple of days in Brampton, where I was treated to an incredible Sri Lankan meal. Sri Lankan food isn’t for the faint of heart — it’s spicy, pulls no punches, and was almost too much for my wussy Iranian taste buds. There’s nothing a dollop of yogurt can’t cool, though, and I happily went to down on fiery mutton curry alongside seeni (onion) sambol, pol (coconut) sambol, biryani, fish cutlets, and hoppers.

What are hoppers, you ask? Similar to a crepe, hoppers are made from a fermented batter of rice flour, coconut milk and a dash of palm toddy. The batter is cooked in a hemispherical wok-like pan. There are many types of hoppers, like string hoppers and egg hoppers. Sri Lankan cuisine is nearly impossible to come by in the Bay Area, so this was a real treat.

After a couple of days in Brampton we were off to the Toronto suburb of London, Ontario. But first: Tim Hortons.

Tim Hortons

C’mon. What’s a road trip in Canada without a coup of Tim Hortons coffee and an order of Timbits doughnut holes?

Ledson Winery and Vineyards

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Growing up, Ledson Winery was “the castle winery.” As children, we had no interest in wine, and only cared that driving past Ledson at night along rural Highway 12 was especially spooky.

Ledson Winery

These days, my tastes have matured and I like to visit Ledson for the (non-scary and actually very welcoming) ambiance and breathtaking vineyard views. I was last there during harvest season with Nishan and my sister, Melody. And yes, we still call it the castle winery.

Ledson Winery

The castle has has only been around since the 1990s but the Ledson family has been making wine and farming since the 1800s. The French Normandy-style structure is easy to spot in Kenwood if you’re wine tasting along Highway 12. The vines immediately surrounding the castle are Merlot, but the winery makes a range of reds and whites.

If you’re in the area and thinking of picking up a bottle, better do so while you’re there: Ledson only sells at their winery and at their hotel in neighboring Sonoma.

Morimoto Napa

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Masaharu Morimoto has ten restaurants across the world, with another two on the way this year. Still, I was beside myself to try out his California outpost at Morimoto Napa. I used to love watching him on the original Iron Chef series, in awe of Chef Morimoto’s creativity and deftness in the kitchen.

Wagyu beef carpaccio

After securing reservations, Nishan and I visited Morimoto Napa on a warm Saturday evening and started our meal with the Wagyu beef carpaccio. Drizzled with yuzu soy, ginger, and sweet garlic, this carpaccio was seared, so it wasn’t a true carpaccio, but it was delicious and tender nevertheless.

Bone marrow

The bone marrow with five spices was next. Earthy and rich, we could have used some toast or other vessel to sop up our marrow.

Marinated dumplings

We also shared a plate of marinated dumplings. Garnished with peanut salad, pig ears, and chili oil, these dumplings were our favorite dish of the evening. So juicy, so flavorful. The salad was perfect for livening up our palates.

Sea urchin carbonara

Now, I’ve never been a big fan of pasta carbonara, but I love sea urchin, so I couldn’t resist trying the sea urchin carbonara. The uni was indeed delicious: creamy and faintly tasting like the sea. But the smoked bacon and shallot flavors didn’t win me over, and so I continue to give the Kanye shrug to carbonaras in general.

Mango "caviar"

Dessert was the prettiest course: mango “caviar” with vanilla buttermilk panna cotta. I wish I could have taken the caviar tin home. Basically what I’m saying here is that I love caviar.

The service at Morimoto Napa was attentive without being pretentious, the ambiance was upscale and modern, and the location was ideal: right on the Napa waterfront. If I go back, it’ll be to try the omakase. After all, Chef Morimoto was trained in traditional kaiseki (and sushi) cuisine and one can dream of running into him at his wine country outpost, right?

Darioush Winery

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Say what you will about Darioush Winery’s over-the-top architecture, expensive tastings, and even more expensive bottles. Yes, it can be a lot to take in, especially along Napa’s Silverado Trail, but who are we kidding here? Napa is the heart of wine country’s touristification. (Uh oh, my Sonoma County-ness is showing again.) At least at Darioush, the wine is delicious and the grounds are beautiful.

Darioush Winery

Darioush Khaledi built his winery to evoke Persepolis, the seat of the ancient Persian Empire. He’s an Iranian-American entrepreneur and I tip my (imaginary) hat to the man: instead of shying away from his Iranian heritage like some Iranians who have made it in the US, he’s fully embraced it.

Darioush Winery

During my last visit, Nishan and I stopped by for a tasting, and things have changed. $40 tastings and valet parking. How Tehrangeles. This hasn’t deterred the crowds and Darioush Winery is as bustling as ever, so much so that it was an effort to get the attention of our guide throughout our visit.

Darioush Winery

After our tasting, we explored the outdoor garden, dotted with pomegranate trees and fountains full of water lilies. For a moment, you could almost pretend you were in Iran. Almost.

Artesa Vineyards and Winery

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I’m a Sonoma County girl, but every so often, I cross over to the dark side and visit Napa for a change of pace. Last fall, Nishan and I visited Artesa Vineyards and Winery in the Napa hills. It might be the most beautiful winery I’ve been to.

Artesa Winery

Flanked by original sculptures, mixed media, and panoramic views of the Bay Area, Artesa is breathtaking. Twin cascades and fountains lead to the winery entrance, a Mediterranean structure nestled atop a hill that reflects the architect’s Barcelonan heritage.

And oh, the wine. Artesa produces small, premium lots of Carneros and Napa Valley Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The cabs were our favorite, and our host helpfully gave us wine pairing suggestions.

Growing up in wine country, I didn’t appreciate the beauty of the region until I moved to the hustle and bustle of the city. But I mean, c’mon. Good wine, beautiful scenery, and cheese and produce as far as the eyes can see. An afternoon at Artesa was the reminder I needed: what more could one want than this?