Linguine with Clams and Bagna Cauda Butter

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What’s better than linguine with clams? Why, linguine with clams doused in a buttery, garlicy sauce, of course. Adapted from a Michael Chiarello recipe, this dish is a little bit Italian country and a little bit wine country. Most importantly, it’s entirely delicious.

Linguine with clams and bagna cauda butter

Ingredients:

1 pound dried linguine
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons garlic
2 tablespoons chopped anchovies
3/4 stick butter
sea salt
4 pounds clams, scrubbed
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
3/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley

1. Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a small saucepan over low heat. When the oil just begins to warm, add the garlic and anchovies and cook slowly, stirring, until the garlic becomes light brown and the anchovies dissolve, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool completely.

2. Process the butter in a food processor until smooth and creamy. Add the cooled garlic-anchovy mixture and a pinch of salt. Process until well blended. Transfer to a bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons of the parsley, reserving the rest. Set bagna cauda butter mixture aside.

3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta.

4. While the pasta cooks, prepare the clams. Heat a large pot over high heat. When very hot, add the olive oil, then add the clams. When the clams first begin to open, add the wine and bring to a boil. Boil for a couple of minutes to drive off the alcohol, then cover and cook until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open.

5. Drain the pasta when it is al dente and transfer it to the pot with the clams. Cook over moderate heat for about 1 minute so the pasta absorbs some of the sauce. Turn off the heat, add the butter and reserved parsley and toss until the butter melts. Serve immediately.

Beretta

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Beretta, where have you been all my life? There’s a new restaurant opening up in the Mission District every five minutes so it was easy for Beretta to get lost in the mix. I ignored the rave reviews and kept telling myself I’d visit eventually. Well, eventually happened and I’m hooked.

Burrata bruschetta

Beretta is famous for its cocktails — some of the best in the city, in fact. I think it should also be famous for its bruschetta. I sampled their burrata bruschetta walnut bread and mushroom truffle honey, and oh my goodness, Internet. This stuff is amazing. Creamy, nutty, earthy, sweet, savory, this dish has it all. I’m scrambling to replicate it at home.

Mushroom, tomato, fontina, and thyme pizza

I never tire of mushrooms, so I also tried Beretta’s mushroom, tomato, fontina, and thyme pizza. You guys, we have another winner. You know that nice sort-of-papery and sort-of-soft thing that happens to mushrooms when they’re sliced super thinly atop pizza? This pizza is perfect at that. What it’s even better at is the crust. Thin, crispy, chewy crust. Heaven in cheese and carb form.

Is there anything that Beretta doesn’t make well? I guess I’ll have to keep visiting to find out.

The Girl and the Fig

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The sleepy little town of Sonoma doesn’t have a ton of restaurants but what it lacks in quantity it makes up in quality. At the top of the list lies the The Girl and the Fig: French cuisine in a wine country setting. Located in Sonoma’s charming downtown, Nishan and I visited after a long day of wine tasting. We were famished (and hey, wine tasting is serious business).

Steak tartare

We started with the steak tartare — my first steak tartare, mind you. Served with caperberries and sprinkled with lavender sea salt, this was far tastier than I imagined it would be. Who knew steak could be light and yet decadent? The caperberries provided a hit of piquantness while crusty bread served as a perfect canvas with which to eat our tartare.

Butternut squash arancini

For my entree, I had a plate of butternut squash arancini served with oyster mushroom and frisee salad. This was delicious but the plate was quite small as a main dish. Better suited as an appetizer, I polished off my entire plate. Warm, gooey arancini, velvety mushrooms, and peppery greens — more please.

The Girl and the Fig is among Sonoma’s most popular restaurants, so make reservations ahead of time. Despite being nearly always busy, service is good and the dishes are presented with detail. It’s a little bit country, a little bit California, and a little bit French. In other words, entirely wine country.

The Fig Cafe

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I grew up in Sonoma County but it wasn’t until I moved away and settled in the central Bay Area that I came to appreciate how spectacular wine country really is. I still get excited showing a visitor wine country for the first time, so when Nishan and I made a day trip to Glen Ellen for some wine tasting, I was looking forward as if I’d never been either.

Tart du jour

Wine tasting requires fuel — the stomach kind, so we stopped at the Fig Cafe before making our way to Benziger and Imagery wineries. Sister to Sonoma’s celebrated the Girl and the Fig, the Fig Cafe is more laid back but just as delicious.

For brunch, I had the tart du jour with a side of French fries and salad. I typically steer clear of tarts, but this was different. Baked with butternut squash, smoky cheese, and hearty bacon, this has got to be the best tart I’ve ever tasted. Oh man, was this good.

Fontina, applewood smoked bacon and, poached egg pizza

Nishan enjoyed a fontina, applewood smoked bacon, and poached egg pizza which I couldn’t seem to keep my hands off. What’s better than dipping a cheesy, crispy piece of crust into runny egg yolk? Nothing.

The Fig Cafe is a super short drive away from all the wineries along the Sonoma Highway, making it the perfect place to enjoy a bite before imbibing. It’s tucked away in sleepy Glen Ellen, so I hadn’t visited until this year. It turns out I had to move away and return to my roots in order to discover this gem.

Hong Kong Lounge

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If there’s one thing San Francisco has no shortage of, it’s dim sum restaurants. (Also hipsters and insufferable coffee snobs, but that’s another story). I met up with friends one foggy morning to check out the Richmond District’s Hong Kong Lounge, and after a two-hour (!) wait, we were seated.

Dim sum

Do you like fried things? Do you like doughy things? Do you like savory-salty things? Then Hong Kong Lounge is the place for you. Our little plates of dim sum seemed never-ending as we sampled bites of shrimp dumplings and turnip cake and rice noodle rolls and sweet sesame balls. And that was just the beginning.

Dim sum

Dim sum

No vegetables here. No sir. I suppose we could have shared a plate of steamed greens but that would have taken up precious room from more dim sum. We spent the next hour in a gluten and seafood-induced eating stupor, dousing our bites with chili oil and soy sauce, enjoying every morsel.

Hong Kong Lounge is a solid dim sum restaurant, if you’re willing to endure the wait. Pack a jacket, endure the biting Richmond District fog, and soon you’ll be feasting on some of the best dim sum in town, too.