Category: San Francisco, California

Posted on July 8, 2012July 8, 2012

Ever since I saw Anthony Bourdain try xiaolongbao on an old episode of No Reservations, I’ve been smitten with trying the regional dumpling. Xiaolongbao, or Shanghai soup dumplings, are delicate flour dumplings filled with a solid meat aspic. After being steamed, the filling melts into a piping hot soup, perfect for dipping into the requisite vinegar-ginger sauce. If that doesn’t sound compelling, I question your taste buds.

Bund Shanghai in San Francisco’s Chinatown serves the best xiaolongbao I’ve sampled in the city. The filling is super flavorful and the dough is delicate but sturdy enough to encase the dumpling’s liquid gold inside.

But there’s so much more to Shanghai cuisine. On a recent visit, I sampled lion’s head meatballs, or meatballs stewed with soy sauce and bok choy. Covered in a savory, slightly sweet sauce, the leafy vegetable is meant to convey a lion’s mane.

The menu at Bund Shanghai is long and can be unfamiliar, but be adventurous. I tried the salted cabbage with bean curd skin on the recommendation of a colleague, and while the name doesn’t scream “eat me!” it’s now one of my favorite dishes at Bund Shanghai. The bean curd skin is translucent and noodle-like, while the salty cabbage adds a kick and fresh soybeans provide crunch.

Another dish I would have overlooked were it not for the recommendation of another colleague are the turnip puffs. This small plate is part of the lunch menu only, and is made with a peppery shredded turnip and meat filling encased in a light, flaky puff pastry.

While Bund Shanghai specializes in Shanghai-style cuisine, don’t overlook their other offerings. Bund Shanghai serves my favorite version of the Sichuanese dan dan noodles. It’s also the spiciest version of dan dan noodles I’ve tasted, so be prepared to break a sweat. For the uninitiated, dan dan noodles are noodles served in a blazingly spicy sauce containing preserved vegetables, ground meat, green onions, chili oil, and Sichuan peppers.

With a casual vibe and friendly service, Bund Shanghai has become one of my regular go-tos in San Francisco when I’m hungry. I may not have visited Shanghai yet, but at least I finally found my beloved soup dumplings — and much, much more at that.

Posted on May 6, 2012May 6, 2012

Good ramen is hard to come by in San Francisco. There are a few glimmers of light (*cough* Tanpopo *cough*), but I’ve longed for something downtown, closer to work. When Ramen Underground opened up in the Financial District last fall, I was overjoyed.

Ramen Undergound has become my go-to spot when I’m craving ramen but can’t get to Japantown (or better yet, the South Bay). The broth is umami-laden, the noodles are chewy and full of bite, and the ambiance is fun. I usually order the shoyu ramen with a gyoza topping. Outside of the standard pork-based broth, Ramen Undergound also has chicken and vegetarian broth options on their menu.

I’ve never gone for lunch, but around dinnertime, it’s always busy, and there is nearly always a wait. And oh, it’s BYOB, in case you like your ramen with a cold beer. Ramen Underground is minimalist in its approach, which works just fine. The emphasis is on quality, and at the end of the day, I’m happy that when the craving hits, good ramen is just a short walk away.

Posted on April 28, 2012April 28, 2012

Union Square isn’t the first place I think of when I eat out in San Francisco, especially if I’m craving sushi. But when my cousin recommended Akiko’s for a meal one evening, I thought, why not?

Akiko’s stays busy, so we’d made reservations for our weeknight dinner. We were quickly seated inside the small restaurant, and ordered from both their standard and special nama menu, featuring nigiri and sashimi flown in from Japan.

Our agedashi tofu arrived first, arranged artfully and topped with grated daikon radish. Agedashi tofu is silken tofu, lightly dusted with potato or cornstarch, deep-fried until golden brown, and served in a sauce of dashi, mirin and soy sauce. This version was crispier than the standard version, and more minimalist (the dish usually includes green onion and shaved bonito flakes), but still delicious.

Next came our selection from the nama menu: suzuki, shiro maguro, and smoked uni nigiri. This was my first time trying uni in smoked form, and the flavor was much stronger than I expected. I prefer the untouched version, but uni fans should still try this anyway, just to experience it. The shiro maguro, or white tuna, was mild and clean-tasting — just the way it should be. The suzuki, or sea bass, was my favorite: super fresh, and served with a light ponzu sauce.

Our volcano roll arrived last, and was essentially the opposite of our nigiri plate: rich, fried, and over the top. Made up of spicy salmon, salmon skin, crab, avocado, crunchy tempura, green onions, sesame, masago roe, and drizzled with a garlicy sauce, the volcano roll made the sushi purist in me cringe, but I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t delicious.

Service can be slow at Akiko’s, but it’s thorough and attentive. Just be sure to make reservations, even if you’re dropping by on a weeknight. Akiko’s may not be the most traditional sushi restaurant in the city, but I’m happy to know I can find a good roll or nigiri downtown, should I get the urge.

Posted on April 15, 2012

If San Francisco’s Chinatown had an official hole-in-the-wall restaurant, Hon’s Wun-Tun House would be it. Homely, bare-bones, and crowded, Hon’s is where I go when I need a comforting bowl of noodle soup, and fast.

I’m not sure when the seemingly-dated menu was last updated at Hon’s, but I usually get the first item: wun-tun and noodle in soup. After I add my requisite garnish of chili oil, I’m in comfort food heaven. The noodles have a good bite, the wontons (or wun-tuns) are full of shrimp and meat, and the broth is flavorful without being greasy. My only complaint is that the serving size is small (a bowl costs under four dollars), so sometimes I explore the menu and order a second dish to share with my dining companions. Curry beef or offal with sauce, anyone?

Speaking of dining companions, some staff at Hon’s speak English, but it’s helpful to go with folks who speak Cantonese. Service can be slow when Hon’s is busy (which is often), but once you’ve ordered, food arrives quickly. Stick to the noodle soups here and you’ll understand why there’s nearly always a crowd at Hon’s.

Posted on February 4, 2012

Ever since I visited Japan a couple of years ago, I’ve been on the hunt for the best ramen I can find this side of the Pacific. Sure, I’ve had good ramen in the Bay Area, but nothing like what I tasted on the streets of Shinjuku. I’ve been looking for that sweet spot: chewy noodles, salty but not overpowering broth, and no skimping on the toppings.

I finally found it at Tanpopo in Japantown. A colleague suggested it to me and on a rainy afternoon, we headed over for lunch. She recommended the kyushu ramen, which I ordered.

Kyushu ramen (named after Japan’s southernmost island) is a specialty at Tanpopo: a cloudy, rich broth called tonkotsu, served with egg noodles, boiled bean sprouts, red ginger, chashu pork, bamboo shoots, boiled egg, fishcake, seaweed, and green onions. Whew. My only complaint is that the egg wasn’t soft, but then again, this was one of the few times I’ve finished my entire bowl of ramen.

Tanpopo is nearly always busy, so plan accordingly, especially since Japantown can be a bit out of the way and service at Tanpopo can be brusque. I can’t speak to their other styles of ramen, but the kyushu ramen alone is worth the trek.