Travel – Page 14 – Yogurtsoda

Izakaya Yuzuki

December 11, 2013

Yeah, yeah, I know. Another izakaya. But this one is different, really. Izakaya Yuzuki in San Francisco’s Mission District may be one of the trendiest types of restaurants to pop up in one of the trendiest parts of town, but this place is serious, going so far as to make their tofu and miso in-house.

I met here one evening for a reunion dinner with friends, and we started with the Kyoto-style local vegetables. Light and slightly piquant, these were the perfect palate cleanser for our meal.

Next we shared a plate of simple, unadulterated sashimi. Raw fish isn’t the strongest suit of your average izakaya, but this was an exception. Buttery tuna and rich salmon left me wishing for more.

I was quickly distracted by the seared waygu beef tataki that came next. Served with miso sauce and onion salad, this was one of our heftiest dishes, and among the quickest to go. Speaking of quick to go, my personal favorite dish here was the chawan mushi with uni, an egg-y, custard-y dish so comforting that it was gone before I had a chance to snap a photo.

Next came the grilled mackerel, which was too bland for my taste. I typically love mackerel, but I would have preferred a more flavorful fish here.

Next up: shrimp and root vegetable tempura served with green tea salt, one of Izakaya Yuzuki’s most popular dishes. We loved this so much we ordered it twice.

We finished our meal with the grilled omusubi, a crispy rice dish topped with shoyu-flavored vegetables. A solid end to a solid meal.

True to izakaya form, the servings at Izakaya Yuzuki are small, so keep that in mind when ordering. Our party of four went through nine or ten dishes, and amazingly, it wasn’t too much. Still, not all izakayas are created equal, and Izakaya Yuzuki is clearly paying attention to the details.

Two Days in Monterey and Carmel

November 13, 2013

We decided to go the Central Coast on a whim. Nishan had never been down Highway 1 and what kind of Californian was I for letting that pass for so long? A weekend isn’t long enough for a leisurely drive all the way to San Diego, but Monterey was only three hours away so we packed our bags and headed down.

Our first stop was Santa Cruz for a quick but disappointing lunch near the boardwalk. Hello, tourist trap. No matter, though, and we continued south until we arrived at the entrance of the famed 17-mile drive. Okay, I know I just disparaged tourist traps but this one is worth it. I hadn’t been since I was a teenager and these views were stunning, especially near dusk. Of course we stopped at the Lone Cypress in all its, uh, cypressy glory.

Near the end of our drive, we stopped at The Lodge at Pebble Beach for cocktails by the fire and some golf watching. Golf doesn’t exactly move me, but the ambiance here made it my favorite part of the drive.

After checking in to our hotel, we ended our evening with a stroll down Cannery Row, made famous by John Steinbeck’s classic novels but unfortunately, infamous today for souvenir stands at every other step. We returned the next morning to visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which was built on top of Cannery Row’s old sardine factory. This may be one of the world’s older major aquariums, but it’s still among the most impressive.

All that fish viewing made us hungry for some, well, fish, so we stopped at Ocean Sushi Deli on our way out of Monterey for a quick lunch. Boasting a huge menu and a super casual vibe, this cute deli-slash-sushi-restaurant satisfied my craving. It’s away from the crowds and worth getting away for.

We had just one more stop before heading back to the Bay Area: Carmel. If Monterey is Disneyland, then Carmel is Beverly Hills. We parked our car downtown and strolled down the pretty cobblestone streets, popping into art galleries and boutiques along the way. Carmel’s downtown is a short walk from the (dog-friendly) beach.

It was time to head back to the Bay Area, and we headed out of Carmel we passed fruit stand after fruit stand, eager to beat the traffic rush home. We may have only seen a tiny piece of California’s coast, but hey, I’d done my duty as a Californian.

Din Tai Fung

November 6, 2013November 6, 2013

Din Tai Fung, where have you been all of my life? And more importantly, why isn’t there one of you in the Bay Area?

The last time I was in Los Angeles for work, I snuck in a quick dinner with Frank and Megan, gourmands extraordinaire. We braved the LA traffic and headed to Arcadia for Din Tai Fung, a Taiwanese restaurant chain with posts all over the world. (Let’s be clear: “chain” isn’t a dirty word here. This place is good.)

After waiting 495 years, we were seated at one of Arcadia’s Din Tai Fungs. It turns out that the first one was so popular and crowded that the owners open a second location across the street.

It was worth the wait, though. The xiaolongbao, or soup dumplings, arrived first, piping hot and full of meaty, brothy goodness. The spicy-garlicy cucumber appetizer was among my favorites too, a fresh and crunchy interlocutor between bites of dumplings.

The wontons in spicy sauce were delicious too, covered with chili oil and filled with, well, more meat. A small plate of seaweed and bean curd in vinegar dressing helped cut through the richness of the dumplings, fried rice, and noodles that kept on coming.

We couldn’t finish our meal that evening, but I’ve been hooked ever since. Din Tai Fung is a must if you’re in southern California (or Seattle, where their other US location lies). I’m hoping they’ll open a location in the Bay Area soon, but until then, I’m dreaming of a dumpling paradise down south.

Kowloon Tong Dessert Cafe

October 30, 2013

I’m picky when it comes to desserts. Cakes don’t to much for me and chocolate doesn’t really move me either. But tapioca? Coconut? Lychee? Delicious. When it comes to satisfying my sweet tooth, I look east. And Kowloon Tong Dessert Cafe in San Francisco’s Richmond District is perfect for that late-night sago or sesame dumpling fix.

I visited during a chilly evening so I got a the coconut milk sago. Steamy and gooey (in a good way, I swear), this was comfort in a bowl. The best part? It wasn’t too sweet: perfect for my finicky dessert palate.

Kowloon Tong has tons of other desserts I can’t wait to go back and try again. Black sticky rice? Check. Mango pudding? Please. Waffle? Of course.

Kowloon Tong is open until one or two in the morning on most nights, which leaves you with plenty of time to enjoy dinner in the Richmond beforehand. Who needs cake when you’ve got tapioca pearls?

Minami Restaurant

October 26, 2013

I first fell in love with Minami Restaurant back when I was a university undergrad, living in San Francisco’s Richmond District. Smitten by the city and its seemingly endless supply of good eats, Minami was a tiny hole-in-the-wall sushi joint just a short walk from my flat. Their simple, delicious rolls quickly made Minami my favorite sushi restaurant, far away from the crowds. It was my little secret (well, mine and the entire Richmond District’s).

Fast forward to 2013 and I finally repaid Minami a visit after not having been for nearly a decade. I dropped by one evening with Karen and Anoop, eating partners in crime, and we started with Minami’s signature complimentary dish of sweet potatoes in a sweet, sticky soy glaze. This dish is no-frills but the potato is so perfectly cooked that I could happily eat ten more.

Next, we got to business. We ordered a platter of maguro, tobiko, hotate, sake, and kampyo and oh man, had I missed Minami. This place is just as good as I remember it being, and it’s not just the nostalgia talking.

Don’t go here expecting crazy rolls and you won’t be disappointed. Minami is perfect purist sushi in a no-frills setting. I’m not sure why I let nearly ten years roll by without paying my old stomping grounds a visit, but one thing is for sure: Minami has only gotten better with time.