Restaurant Reviews – Page 9

Bund Shanghai

July 8, 2012July 8, 2012

Ever since I saw Anthony Bourdain try xiaolongbao on an old episode of No Reservations, I’ve been smitten with trying the regional dumpling. Xiaolongbao, or Shanghai soup dumplings, are delicate flour dumplings filled with a solid meat aspic. After being steamed, the filling melts into a piping hot soup, perfect for dipping into the requisite vinegar-ginger sauce. If that doesn’t sound compelling, I question your taste buds.

Bund Shanghai in San Francisco’s Chinatown serves the best xiaolongbao I’ve sampled in the city. The filling is super flavorful and the dough is delicate but sturdy enough to encase the dumpling’s liquid gold inside.

But there’s so much more to Shanghai cuisine. On a recent visit, I sampled lion’s head meatballs, or meatballs stewed with soy sauce and bok choy. Covered in a savory, slightly sweet sauce, the leafy vegetable is meant to convey a lion’s mane.

The menu at Bund Shanghai is long and can be unfamiliar, but be adventurous. I tried the salted cabbage with bean curd skin on the recommendation of a colleague, and while the name doesn’t scream “eat me!” it’s now one of my favorite dishes at Bund Shanghai. The bean curd skin is translucent and noodle-like, while the salty cabbage adds a kick and fresh soybeans provide crunch.

Another dish I would have overlooked were it not for the recommendation of another colleague are the turnip puffs. This small plate is part of the lunch menu only, and is made with a peppery shredded turnip and meat filling encased in a light, flaky puff pastry.

While Bund Shanghai specializes in Shanghai-style cuisine, don’t overlook their other offerings. Bund Shanghai serves my favorite version of the Sichuanese dan dan noodles. It’s also the spiciest version of dan dan noodles I’ve tasted, so be prepared to break a sweat. For the uninitiated, dan dan noodles are noodles served in a blazingly spicy sauce containing preserved vegetables, ground meat, green onions, chili oil, and Sichuan peppers.

With a casual vibe and friendly service, Bund Shanghai has become one of my regular go-tos in San Francisco when I’m hungry. I may not have visited Shanghai yet, but at least I finally found my beloved soup dumplings — and much, much more at that.

Daikokuya

June 12, 2012June 13, 2012

Word on the street is that Daikokuya is the best ramen joint in Los Angeles. And by “street,” I mean Yelp. I ended up at Little Tokyo’s Daikokuya with my colleagues one evening, and unsurprisingly, the restaurant had a wait. After about thirty minutes, we were seated in one of Daikokuya’s casual, no-frills booths and handed a menu.

We started with a plate of pan-fried gyoza, crisped to perfection and covered in fragrant green onions. The gyoza wrappers were thinner than average, yet the filling managed to stay juicy.

Next came a plain shredded cabbage salad, followed by a tuna sashimi bowl. The tuna sashimi, which sat atop a layer of shredded nori and rice, served as a tasty but simple palate cleanser for what was the real star of the show: the daikoku ramen.

The daikoku ramen is the only ramen on the menu at daikokuya. Making the broth is purportedly a day-long process, beginning with boiling pork bones and culminating in a broth reduction and soy sauce infusion. Lovers of fatty broth will rejoice here, but it was a little too rich for my taste. Still, the quality is apparent, and the daikoku ramen includes a healthy serving of chewy noodles, pork belly, boiled egg, bamboo shoots, and bean sprouts.

So, is Daikokuya the best ramen in Los Angeles? It depends on how you like your ramen. Regardless, I left feeling happy and satisfied, and that’s what it’s really all about.

Soowon Galbi

May 28, 2012May 28, 2012

I can’t make a visit to Los Angeles without visiting Koreatown. As much as I hate to admit it, the Bay Area has nothing on LA when it comes to Korean restaurants, and the last time I visited, I checked out Soowon Galbi in the heart of K-town. My colleagues and I were famished, and the intoxicating aroma of barbecued meat and garlicy banchan added to the torture while we waited to be seated.

Once we were seated, the soju was flowing, and meat was ordered. And I mean lots of meat. One beef short rib, pork belly, beef brisket, beef rib eye, and two platters of bulgogi were ordered, along with rice, salad, and radish soup. And banchan. Oh how the banchan overfloweth.

For good measure, we also ordered a seafood pancake, because why not? If you’re gonna go, go all the way.

The meat at Soowon Galbi was without question among the best Korean barbecue I’ve had. Tender, juicy, and flavorful, we sopped up every last bit with rice and palate-cleansing bites of banchan and soup in between. The seafood pancake was chewy and crispy, as it should be.

We walked back to our hotel that evening, trekking an hour from Koreatown to downtown LA. I don’t really want to think about how many calories we consumed that evening, but I do know one thing: it was absolutely worth it.

Udupi Palace

May 20, 2012

I realize I’m putting my South Asian food credibility on the line by saying this, but I’d never eaten a dosa until this year. In fact, despite my love of Indian cuisine, I remained mostly clueless about South Indian cooking, and frequenting restaurants that specialized in North Indian food instead.

Enter Udupi Palace. Long touted as one of the Bay Area’s best casual South Asian eats, I checked out Berkeley’s Udupi Palace for dinner one evening with my sister. Walking in, we were immediately hit with the aroma of chilis, coconut, and tamarind. In other words, all of my favorite things.

We started with a sambar vada, or savory fried lentil donuts immersed in a bowl of sambar, and a spice mixture that was flecked with cumin, corriander, garlic, and pepper. The fried vada soaked up the savory sauce without losing its shape or texture. Delicious.

My sister ordered the spinach masala dosa and I had the masala dosa, and we shared. Both were filled with spicy potatoes and onions, and the thin, papery crepe was a perfect vehicle. Each of our servings came with more sambar, a mild coconut chutney, and a spicy red chili chutney.

The portions at Udupi Palace are big, and many of the dishes aren’t exactly light, so go when you’re extra hungry. There was so much on the menu that I wanted to try, and I can’t wait back for more. Next time, I’ll try the uthappam (similar to dosa, but thicker), and a yogurt lassi — or yogurt soda, of course.

Ramen Underground

May 6, 2012May 6, 2012

Good ramen is hard to come by in San Francisco. There are a few glimmers of light (*cough* Tanpopo *cough*), but I’ve longed for something downtown, closer to work. When Ramen Underground opened up in the Financial District last fall, I was overjoyed.

Ramen Undergound has become my go-to spot when I’m craving ramen but can’t get to Japantown (or better yet, the South Bay). The broth is umami-laden, the noodles are chewy and full of bite, and the ambiance is fun. I usually order the shoyu ramen with a gyoza topping. Outside of the standard pork-based broth, Ramen Undergound also has chicken and vegetarian broth options on their menu.

I’ve never gone for lunch, but around dinnertime, it’s always busy, and there is nearly always a wait. And oh, it’s BYOB, in case you like your ramen with a cold beer. Ramen Underground is minimalist in its approach, which works just fine. The emphasis is on quality, and at the end of the day, I’m happy that when the craving hits, good ramen is just a short walk away.