Tahoe Galbi

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Let’s be honest: The Bay Area has nothing on Los Angeles when it comes to Korean food. San Francisco’s Koreatown dwarfs in size to LA’s, and while there are pockets of mouthwatering Korean restaurants in the South Bay and Oakland, Los Angeles simply has more. So it was with great anticipation that I visited Tahoe Galbi, located in Los Angeles’ Koreatown with a group of colleagues.

Tahoe Galbi bills itself as an all-you-can-eat barbeque restaurant, which, if you’re familiar with Korean barbecue, can be a very dangerous thing for your waistline. Sure, Korean food is healthy, but endless plates of meat? My stomach says yes, but my pants say no.

Korean Barbecue

We nibbled on small plates of banchan while we waited for our first plate of meat to arrive. I went for the fish cakes and pickled cucumbers, my favorites.

Korean Barbecue

Our plate of thinly-sliced rib eye soon arrived, and we grilled at the table, dipping into our bowls of chili bean paste to season the meat. A bite of rice here, a mouthful of steak there, and I was in heaven.

Korean Barbecue

While we mostly ordered red meat, we opted for a plate of shrimp and baby octopus as well, which were very good. The shrimp in shell were messy but just perfect dipped in tiny plates of sesame oil and salt.

Korean Barbecue

We shared a couple more plates of steak before moving on to pork belly, which was a first for me. I tried a bite and was surprised by the super rich flavor, which paired well with vinegary, spicy kimchi. My favorite, however, was the tender, marinated bulgogi beef.

Tahoe Galbi gets very busy, so service is accommodated by a buzzer at each table to signal for a waiter each time one wants to order something new. Want some more banchan? Buzz. Another plate of ribs, perhaps? Buzz.

I left Tahoe Galbi wishing we had an all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue restaurant in the Bay Area. Although I’m not sure how much self-control I could exercise living so close to one, so maybe it’s a blessing in disguise. It’s a good thing Los Angeles isn’t too far away.

Wokcano

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Please don’t laugh. Despite the cheesy name, Wokano actually serves up some quality fare. I can’t speak to the Asian fusion entrees on their menu, but when a colleague and I arrived in Los Angeles for a work trip one late weeknight, we were craving sushi. Wokano was located just down the block from where were staying, so we decided to give it a shot.

Part lounge, part restaurant, I admit I was a little apprehensive about what to expect. But my colleague and I were ravenous, and in our hunger, we ordered the Sushi Love Boat for Two. Don’t judge us; it was a strategic decision.

Miso soup and salad

But first, we started with the ubiquitous miso soup and salad, which were both very good. The soup was invigorating after our tiring flight, and I’m still wondering what they put in the salad dressing to make it so tangy and lip-smackingly good.

Sushi boat platter

Next came our, ahem, Love Boat for Two, consisting of assorted sushi, sashimi, tuna hand rolls, tiger rolls, and eel avocado rolls, oh my. Okay, admittedly, this was not the best sushi I’ve ever had in my life. But for a late weeknight evening in what was an otherwise mostly deserted downtown Los Angeles, it was very satisfying. Our only disappointment was the tuna hand roll, which had been chopped into a paste-like oblivion. But the yellowtail, salmon, and ahi? I’m getting hungry just thinking about it.

Service was prompt at Wokcano and if you can put your sushi puritanism aside for an hour or two, Wokcano is a good choice. I’m used to stumbling into the nearest eatery at random after a flight just to hold me over, so Wokcano was a welcome surprise.

Ippuku

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Forget food trucks. The Bay Area’s latest food trend is the izakaya – they’re opening up so quickly that I can hardly keep track anymore. Not that I’m complaining. I ate at a few izakayas during my trip to Japan a couple years ago, but it wasn’t until last fall when food writer Michael Bauer wrote a review on Berkeley’s Ippuku, that Bay Area izakayas began to get on my radar.

Located just a few steps from the Downtown Berkeley BART station, Ippuku is less than a year old and prides itself on a waste-not-want-not ethos when it comes to ingredients, and a shochu menu unlike anything I’ve ever seen. I met my cousins there one evening for dinner, and was immediately impressed with the inviting atmosphere the proprietors have created amid the concrete walls and intimate booths.

Shochu flight

We started with a flight of shochu while we checked out the offal-friendly and chicken-centric menu. It must have been a busy night, because Ippuku was out of every single offal-based item on the menu that we were interested in. Hearts, gizzards, necks, tongues, everything. Apparently you have to show up early to get the good stuff. Our very friendly and informed waiter made some alternative suggestions for us, and we started with the chicken gyoza.

Chicken gyoza

Relegated to the frozen food aisle, gyoza have gained a bad wrap (pun unintended). But these were among the best I’ve ever had, and the dough was especially smooth and well, perfect.

Grilled mountain yam

Next, we had the grilled mountain yam, which can be hard to find. I’d never tried mountain yam before, and it was light and crunchy, but not very flavorful. I thought of this dish as a palate cleanser.

Chicken wing yakitori

The chicken wing yakitori came next, which was my favorite of the chicken dishes we shared that evening. Wings are one of my favorite cuts of chicken, and the dark, flavorful meat was so satisfying.

Nori-wrapped grilled mochi

We tried the nori-wrapped grilled mochi next. The mochi itself was flavored very sparingly, so the nori was where it was really at. I would have liked more seasoning on the mochi itself (shoyu perhaps?) but the chewy, sticky texture was fun.

Chicken thigh yakitori wrapped in chicken skin

Then came the chicken thigh yakitori wrapped in chicken skin. This tasted pretty similar to the wings, but I appreciated the creative twist on making sure to use every bit of chicken.

Raw duck on a bed of miso and green onions

Our favorite savory dish of the meal was the raw duck on a bed of miso and green onions. Maybe it was the beautiful presentation, or maybe it was the interactiveness of mixing the raw duck at the table to make sure the coals didn’t burn the meat, but honestly I think it had to do more with the taste. The salty sauce was incredible, and I love duck, so this dish was a winner.

Ume ice cream

We ended our meal with a bowl of ume ice cream, which was perhaps the most surprising dish of all. I love pickled and sour foods like ume, but the vanilla ice cream and pickled plum combination was a little too sweet and a little too vinegared at the same time for my taste. I love the idea though.

I’ve been meaning to return to Ippuku since they were out of most of the dishes I was meaning to try, but even with that disappointment, their menu and service was solid. Next time, though, I’ll make sure to arrive extra early.

Rome, Day Six

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Our last full day in Rome was slow-paced, as Melody and I were both nursing colds that just wouldn’t seem to go away. After an unsuccessful search for a reputedly chic shopping neighborhood in the Marconi district that dropped us off in an area that screamed stoic relics of the Mussolini era rather than boutiques, we left and headed to familiar ground: Campo de’ Fiori. There, we had lunch at Hostaria Romanesca, a busy restaurant that seemed promising.

Pasta Norcina

The tourist overflow should have been the first warning sign. They were out of my first and second pasta choice but undeterred, I asked for the pasta alla norcina, which was so overly rich and cream-laden that the sausage and mushrooms were more like an afterthought than the primary flavors.

We knew what we had to do. We couldn’t finish our pastas, but before we left Campo de’ Fiori, Melody and I walked over to Forno Campo de’ Fiori and bought a couple slices of pizza. Much better.

Forno Campo de Fiori

We had initially planned on spending our last day in Italy by making a day trip to Pompeii, but because we were both feeling so under the weather, we headed towards the Tiber River after lunch, strolling through the outdoor markets and picking up a snack or two along the way.

Gummi paradise

Gummies are one of my favorite candies, so we stopped at what may be the best display of gummies I’ve ever seen and bought a mixed bag. As luck would have it, we lost the bag ten minutes later. I blame the distraction of the not-so-tasty pistachio gelato that I picked up along the way right after. In any case, we continued our stroll until we stumbled upon St. Peter’s Square, just as the neighborhood was getting ready for the New Year’s Eve festivities.

St. Peter's Square

We wanted to stay for the countdown, but our stuffy noses weren’t getting any better and we had to get some rest before we got up in the middle of the night to head back to the airport. Bag of cold-fighting tangerines in tow, we returned to our hotel. Just a few hours later, we were back at Fiumicino Airport, waiting for our flight to take us back to San Francisco. Not a bad way to ring in the new year, if you ask me.

Rome, Day Five

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I’ll admit that I hadn’t heard of Villa Borghese until I began planning this trip. Similar in scope and size to New York City’s Central Park, Villa Borghese houses a renowned art gallery and stunning views to boot. The park is dotted with cafes and gardens, a perfect place to spend a leisurely afternoon after four hectic days.

Salami and cheese panini

Our first stop at Villa Borghese was a small cafe for an early lunch. I got a salami and cheese panini and we ate our sandwiches while we walked, taking in the view between bites.

Villa Borghese

Villa Borghese

For a park that began in construction in the 1600s (but wasn’t opened up to the public until 1903), Villa Borghese is impeccably well-preserved. But it’s also seemingly endless, and Melody and I endlessly looped around in search of the lake at Giardino del Lago until we gave up and consulted a map.

Villa Borghese

We never did find the lake, but we were happy — Villa Borghese was worth the trip to the outskirts of Rome. We were hungry though, so found our way towards the Tridente neighborhood and decided on Life…Ristorante for lunch. The intentionally placed ellipses are part of Life…Ristorante’s name, and and it was with a mixture of amusement and curiosity that we sat down to eat.

Fetuccine with porcini mushrooms and black truffles

I was feeling decadent, so I had the fetuccine with porcini mushrooms and black truffles, with an aperol spritzer on the side. My fetuccine was fresh and perfectly cooked and the truffles weren’t as strongly-flavored as I’d hoped, but satisfying nevertheless. The mushrooms were soft and velvety, a texture I’m unaccustomed to in porcini since they’re usually dried. Melody had the pappardelle with porcini mushrooms and broccoli because she’d caught a cold (that I’d soon catch too) and well, broccoli is a vegetable so naturally that made the huge plate of pasta good for a cold.

After lunch, we spent some time strolling around Tridente and admiring the narrow sidewalks and chic boutiques. Our trip was nearing to an end, and this is where I began to go into a low-grade panic mode that we hadn’t yet sampled enough Roman fare. I stepped into the closest gelateria and bought a Nutella gelato.

Nutella gelato

We never did make it to Rome’s famed Gelato di San Crispino, but the gelato at Centurion did the trick. By this point it was getting late, and there were few restaurants in the neighborhood where our hotel was located, so we stayed in Tridente and had dinner at Hosteleria di 31.

It was packed inside, with diners practically sitting in each other’s laps, but service was brisk and no-frills. I ordered the pappardelle with wild boar sauce, and Melody had the spaghetti Bolognese.

Pappardelle with wild boar sauce

I’ll be honest. I wasn’t even hungry, but I’d never tried wild boar and curiosity got the best of me. It was richer than beef, and the sauce was doused in flecks of black pepper. I probably would have enjoyed it more had I not just downed a plate of pasta and cone of gelato beforehand, but nevertheless, I was sated.

We declared our stealth eating mission an accomplishment and headed back to our hotel for an early night in. We picked up a bag of tangerines on the way back to fight our colds and settled in for few episodes of Willy il principe di Bel Air.