New Orleans, Days Five, Six, and Seven

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At this point in our trip, I figured if you’re going to eat unhealthily, you may as well go all out. And so our group headed to Jacques Imo’s for dinner. Jacques Imo’s is part dive, part chic, part Creole, and part imagination. The dishes are like Willy Wonka for the New Orleanian soul. Naturally, we started with the alligator sausage cheesecake.

Alligator sausage cheesecake

Despite the name, this “cheesecake” tastes more like a quiche and the alligator tasted well, kind of like chicken. (Or frog. You know, that chicken-y, vaguely seafood-y taste.) Flecked with shrimp and bound together with copious amounts of butter and cheese, one slice was more than enough.

Godzilla meets fried tomatoes

I ordered the frighteningly-named Godzilla meets fried tomatoes as my entree. What the hell is that? You might ask. It’s a deep-fried soft shell crab, served on top of a pile of fried green tomatoes and eggplant. Oh, and it’s served with a knife sticking straight out of the crab. This dish wins at presentation and despite it being incredibly rich (are you noticing a trend here?), it was pretty tasty. I love soft-shell crab, served like a crime scene or not.

I woke up the next day needing something a bit lighter for lunch, so we headed towards the trendy Magazine Street for a bite.

Sucre

We stopped at Sucre, a beautiful, sleek ice cream, macarons, and chocolate shop serving some of the prettiest desserts I’ve ever seen. I kept things simple with a creamy coconut-basil sorbet, perfect for countering the southern humidity.

Afterwards, we walked to the Mayan Import Company and bought a few Cohiba cigars, perfect for evening porch-lounging and whiskey-swilling.

Cigar shop

Before we headed back, we stopped at Joey K’s for dinner.

Shrimp remoulade salad

Gumbo

I needed something vaguely healthy, so I ordered a shrimp remoulade salad and gumbo. The shrimp was deep-fried but hey, lettuce! The gumbo was my only real disappointment; it was too salty and lacked depth of flavor. Still, not much beats balmy outdoor seating on a warm southern night.

We continued our outdoor theme when we arrived to the flat we were staying at. We lit our Cohibas, mixed a few Jack and Cokes, and waxed poetic well into the night.

The next day, we woke up late and lazily strolled around the neighborhood, paying a visit to the beautiful Audobon Park before returning to pack our luggage in preparation for our return flights the next day. We grabbed dinner at the Camellia Grill: fried chicken and French fries with a side of coleslaw and chocolate pecan pie to wash it all down. Our trip was almost over, and it’d be futile to try to start eating healthy now. Another porch-lit evening followed and on the last day, we grabbed our bags and headed to the airport, knowing that New Orleans had changed us — and I don’t mean just our waistlines. We said our goodbyes, with one of us headed towards Alberta and the rest back to the West Coast. Next stop: Canada. Any country that invented poutine is a fine country indeed.

New Orleans, Days Three and Four

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My trip to NOLA quickly became characterized by late nights and even later mornings. Breakfast was optional and on our third day, my first meal was an afternoon plate of crawfish etouffee.

Crawfish etouffee

The name of the French Quarter restaurant where I ate this escapes me now, but oh man, was this rich. Etouffee is a creole dish that’s made of shellfish, highly seasoned, thicker than a stew, and served with rice. I tried, but I couldn’t finish my plate. Afterward, we walked it off along the Mississippi River.

No trip to the French Quarter is complete without a visit to the infamous Cafe Du Monde, and instead of dinner, our group headed to the cafe for beignets and cafe au lait.

Beignets

Napkins are not optional here and you will make a mess. It’s worth it, though, and what better to wash down these fluffy, sweet, ethereal beignets than with milky coffee? We walked out in a sugar-induced stupor, high on junk food and wanting more.

Bourbon Street pizza

Naturally, we went towards Bourbon Street, home of spring breaking frat boys, neon slushy hurricanes, and questionable pizzas kept warm under fluorescent lighting. I’ll have one slice of mystery meat pizza, please.

My pizza tasted like regret and loathing, but I washed it down with rum and all was good in the world again.

Speaking of rum, our group headed to the Garden District’s Rum House the next day for lunch. The Garden District was a breath of fresh air from the tourist-flanked French Quarter, and we took in the quiet(er) surroundings on Rum House’s outdoor picnic seating.

Tacos, collard greens, and a patty

I had a plate of “tacos” (note to the uninitiated: these are not your standard Mexican tacos), collard greens, and a patty. If you think these items don’t typically go together, you’re right, they don’t. My tacos were tasty, but the patty left a lot of flavor to be desired. The collard greens made me crave gumbo. Still, the ambiance at Rum House couldn’t be beat.

Later that night we headed towards Parkway Bakery & Tavern for purportedly one of the best po’ boys in town. My heart wanted a fried oyster po’boy, but I ordered a catfish po’ boy instead, because I hear having to use your epi-pen on vacation is kind of a bummer.

Catfish po' boy

This baby was messy, especially with all the Crystal hot sauce I poured all over it. The catfish was greasy, flaky, and spicy. In other words, just right. After four days in New Orleans, I was beginning to realize this was no country for health food.

New Orleans, Days One and Two

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Po’ boys. Sazeracs. Gumbo. Oysters. Wait, scratch that. No oysters. After an unfortunate bout with oysters on the half shell last year, I learned that I’m now allergic to my favorite shellfish. And so I found myself in New Orleans a few months ago for a friend’s sister’s wedding, oyster shacks taunting me at every other corner, unable to imbibe on their sweet, salty nectar.

No matter. New Orleans is a culinary and cultural force to be reckoned with, and our group set out to tackle the city. My first day in NOLA was spent lolling around in the sun in the French Quarter’s beautiful Jackson Square. Designed after Paris’ Place des Vosges in the 1800s, it’s a host to live music, impromptu concerts, and a smattering of fortune tellers.
French Quarter

We woke up late on our second day in New Orleans, and after a late night out, we needed fuel. Off to Central Grocery we went for a sandwich.

Muffuletta

Ladies and gentlemen, this isn’t any old sandwich. This is a muffuletta, and perhaps the world’s greatest. Picture Sicilian sesame bread covered with layers of marinated olive salad, capicola, mortadella, salami, pepperoni, ham, Swiss cheese, and provolone. Now picture being able to only eat a quarter of it. The remaining three-quarters would make for a great post-wedding midnight snack.

Best. Midnight. Snack. Ever.

Bangkok Noodles

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What’s a no-frills and super authentic Thai restaurant doing in the heart of Union Square? I would have never thought to try out Bangkok Noodles until after a night of outfit hunting, I found myself ravenous. Located on the busiest block of Powell Street, I sat down with my dining companions Karen and Anoop and we quickly ordered, with the smell of garlic, shallots, and spicy broth permeating the air.

Seafood noodle soup

My seafood noodle soup did not disappoint. Flecked with loads of fried shallots and topped with fresh herbs, I added a couple of drops of chili sauce and went to town. This dish had just the right ratio of seafood to chewy noodles, and the warm broth was what I needed on a rainy San Francisco evening. Bangkok Noodles has non-noodle dishes on the menu too, but why deviate from a good thing?

Bangkok Noodles is cash-only and the wait can be long, but it’s worth it, especially in Union Square, where quick and good eats can be hard to come by.

48 hours in Chicago: Where to eat and what to do

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I’ve always associated two things with Chicago: The 1980’s sitcom Perfect Strangers (Balki!) and the enormous O’Hare International Airport, where I’ve had many a stopover (and hot dog). Last year, I spent a quick 48 hours in the city for a conference and while most of my time was spent indoors, I got some good eating and sightseeing packed in too.

Deviled eggs with truffle oil and black trumpet mushrooms...

On the Near North Side of Chicago lies Sable, a sleek, no-nonsense New American restaurant serving up classic cuisine with a Midwestern vibe. Salad? What’s that? At Sable, my colleagues and I ate meat. And fried things. Delicious, delicious fried things. I also sampled my first-ever deviled eggs and fell in love. Granted, they were truffled and garnished with trumpet mushrooms, but man were these creamy and decadent. We also split a plate of duck fat steak fries doused with pecorino romano alongside white truffle aioli, for good measure.

Buttermilk fried chicken and waffles

Since indulgence appeared to be the theme of this meal, I had the buttermilk fried chicken waffles with bourbon maple syrup as my entree. This dish was a little over the top for my taste, but I can’t say I wasn’t warned. Sable isn’t playing around, and while my dinner was delicious, I found myself craving a plate of greens afterward.

Chicago architecture tour

Chicago is an architectural gem, and during my second evening in town, I ducked out of the conference for a quick boat tour that guided our group through the Chicago River and highlighted the city’s historical buildings like the Tribune Tower, the Wrigley Building, and Willis (Sears) Tower. I learned more than I could absorb, but I do remember learning that the reason why parts of Chicago smell like chocolate is because of the Blommer Chocolate Company’s factory alongside the river.

Chicago-style hot dog

My trip was over almost as soon as it had begun, but I couldn’t leave without sampling an infamous Chicago hot dog. I stopped at Gold Coast Dogs at O’Hare International Airport and ordered a beef hot dog with all the usual toppings, including what makes a Chicago-style hot dog unique: celery salt and pickled sport peppers. Not bad at all for a quick airport dinner.

This trip was so quick that I didn’t make it to many of the sights I’d wanted to see or any restaurants that I’d wanted to try, like Alinea and Hot Dougs. I barely scratched the surface and if this trip was any indication, there’s still lots and lots of ground to cover.